CO-CRITIC Marilyn Tortolano dips into her work at Crimson Coward chicken in Garden Grove (Tribune photo).

By Jim and Marilyn Tortolano/Orange County Tribune

Manana, El Pollo Loco. Colonel Sanders, you’ve been demoted. Raising Cane’s, you may need to raise your game.

What is arguably the best fast food chicken around has landed in Garden Grove in the form of Crimson Coward, a Nashville-style chicken eatery recently opened in the Pavilion Plaza West near the Sprouts Farmers Market on Chapman Avenue west of Brookhurst Street.

This is a small chain that started with a store in Downey and which has since expanded to Lake Forest, Long Beach and, now, Garden Grove. Expansion into Texas is next.

“Hot” chicken is the latest and – pardon the pun – hottest trend in the poultry field. Hot doesn’t refer to the temperature of food as much as the seasonings cooked into the skin that offer a tasty variety from “country” (no “heat”) all the way to “BURRRN BABY, BURN,” which is not for the faint of heart, or heartburn. 

Being cautious we tried their Half Coward, which consisted of a half-dozen wings, served with bread and pickles, in the country style. Three kinds of dipping sauce  – ranch, crimson sauce and honey – are available.

“No heat” chicken here still packs a spicy tang, although not overwhelming. What comes through is really the essence of the food: the chicken was wonderful. Juicy, tender and flavorful, it quickly overshadowed the other quick-chick meals we’ve had.

Now, take note that Coward Chicken is a bit more expensive than its competitors. Our Half Coward was $15, but as co-partner Mahmoud Makhlouf pointed out to us, all the food is cooked to order and no frozen chicken in used.

You can also order chicken wings, breasts, sandwiches and even a grilled cheese sandwich. Sides include crimson fries, mac and cheese, potato salad, fried pickles and slaw. There’s  a Pepsi-oriented soft drink fountain as well.

Seating is available indoors and outside, and as is the case with any modern restaurant you can order online.

We don’t always review chain operations, but this one is not only new to West Orange County but stands out as an emerging trend in fast food. What also stands out is how really good this chicken tastes.

“Crimson Coward Nashville Hot Chicken” is located at 9816 Chapman Avenue, Garden Grove, 92841.